Cumberland Island
Is Tranquility the Tonic You Seek? Cumberland Island, Georgia. A Feast for Eyes and Soul…
- Wild Horse Roams Sand Dunes, Cumberland Island
There aren’t many places in the world where one can see wild horses grazing along the beach of a preserved, secluded barrier island frozen in time. A setting where the crumbling ruins of a Carnegie mansion hint of the grandeur of nineteenth century days past, and of a high society life that most of us can only imagine. If you appreciate an untouched setting, then treat yourself to a trip to Cumberland Island, Georgia, located near Amelia Island, Florida.
Cumberland Island is largely a protected national park (the Cumberland Island National Seashore), with expansive windswept dunes marked only by native animal tracks (of wildlife like armadillos, deer, wild turkeys and wild horses). When hiking through the trails on Cumberland, you notice the quiet stillness of the forest, interrupted only by rustling leaves in the breeze or an animal scampering in the underbrush.
A visit to Cumberland Island will likely be one of the most unique, natural locations you’ve ever had the opportunity to visit, and is highly recommended. Cumberland Island was a favorite secret getaway of the late John F. Kennedy, Jr. (more about that below).
A protected National Seashore, Cumberland is mostly undeveloped. Picture in your mind for a moment, no stores, no street lights (no paved roads for that matter), no public transportation, and restricted daily access by the public. To put this into perspective, only 300 people a day are allowed on the island — an island that’s larger than Manhattan. A scenic wildlife habitat, Cumberland Island measures about 17.5 miles long by 3 miles wide, and reportedly is the largest “wilderness island” in the U.S. Cumberland will have considerable appeal if you’re interested in both a beautiful, natural setting and history.
- Sandy Main Road Called "Grand Avenue" Cuts Though Maritime Forest, Cumberland Island
Cumberland is actually larger in size than its neighbor, Amelia Island, yet almost uninhabited, with the exception of a tiny number of homes of private landowners. The other residents of the island are the native wildlife such as marsh rabbits, alligators, deer, bob cats, raccoons, feral horses, and birds, to name just a few. Avid naturalists and ecological tourists will really appreciate Cumberland.
NEED TO ESCAPE? REALLY GET AWAY FROM IT ALL ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND
Cumberland is located off the southeast corner of the Georgia mainland. Cumberland is one of the largest barrier islands in a chain of islands along the Atlantic Coast, stretching from Cape Hatteras, NC south to the Talbot Islands in northeast Florida. The Talbot Islands (Florida State Parks) sit at the foot of Amelia’s southern tip. Located adjacent to Amelia Island, Florida, Cumberland is so close to neighboring Amelia, that you can actually see it across the Cumberland Sound from Amelia’s northend. Cumberland is plainly visible across the water from Fort Clinch, a pre-civil war brick fortress perched on Amelia’s shoreline (Fort Clinch State Park occupies over 1,150 acres on Amelia Island’s northend).
CUMBERLAND IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES AND THE SOUL
If you’re a local resident and have never experienced the wonder of Cumberland Island, then shame on you! It’s a feast for the eyes and the soul. You may not want to rush back to 21st century society after glimpsing a simpler time and a natural paradise. It’s easy to dream about what it would be like to live on this island frozen in time — a more tranquil time before traffic, shopping malls, condos, cable TV, and the internet.
SPEND A DAY ADMIRING NATURE AND ENJOYING THE SERENITY
The first time I visited this island years ago, besides seeing wild horses, I recall seeing a wild turkey, a baby armadillo, and a variety of birds (not to mention dolphins alongside the boat on the short journey to the island). You can expect solitary walks on miles of tranquil, completely deserted beachfront, along with plenty of shell varieties for collectors. The dune system on the island is vast and inspires awe – primary dunes and rear dunes – and you walk along paths to the beach through an interdune meadow. It’s unlikely that you’ve ever seen dunes like those of Cumberland Island anywhere else.
THE NOTORIOUS WILD HORSES OF CUMBERLAND ISLAND
- Sea Camp Dune Walkover, Near Campground, Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia
Cumberland has a population of feral horses that roam the island freely. They subsist on the island’s natural bounty such as its marsh grasses and sea oats (about a third of Cumberland is salt marsh). The feral horses seen on Cumberland today reportedly originated from domestic stock released on the island in the early 1900s.
Six wild horses approached us on a sandy “road” cut through the island. We slowly walked past them on the trail. Seemingly tame, the horses did not live up to their “wild” name, and just sauntered over to the side of the path and let us pass by. They observed us with curiosity, but just stood there, using long tails to swat the mosquitoes that seemed to be hanging around them. After we went by, they turned back onto middle of the trail and continued down on their way. However, note that the Park Service warns that you should not approach the feral horses or try to feed them – they can be dangerous.
THE RUINS OF A MANSION, DUNGENESS…
The original inhabitants of the island were Indians who reportedly occupied the island for over 3,000 years, but Cumberland also had a slave population. During the 1850s, the island’s population peaked at 520 people, “65 were white, 455 were black slaves,” according to a book by Mary Bullard. History buffs will like visiting the small Ice House Museum on the island which displays old photos and the historical facts of the island and its previous inhabitants.
- Ruins of Dungeness, a Carnegie Mansion, Cumberland Island National Seashore, GA
Probably the most frequented site on the island is the ruins of a Carnegie mansion, Dungeness. A visit to the grounds of Dungeness promises a unique look back, as your mind’s eye pictures the grand parties and famous high society families that frequented this home in the late nineteenth century, such as the Vanderbilt’s and Dupont’s. When approaching the island from the water, look carefully and you’ll see chimney stacks of Dungeness extending above the tree canopy.
A very comprehensive book, researched for more than 20 years, is “Cumberland Island, A History,” by Mary Bullard (available online.) Ms. Bullard is a descendant of the Carnegie family, the last owners of the island before the US Federal government acquired most of it in 1972, and Cumberland was designated a US National Seashore.
FIRE DESTROYS DUNGENESS IN 1959
There are only ruins left, as the Carnegie home, Dungeness, was destroyed by fire in 1959 — a fire that was intentionally set (but no one was ever charged with the arson). Previously a working plantation owned by the family Nightingale, by the 1840s, the former Dungeness was described as abandoned and going to ruin. The Carnegies actually purchased the property from a General Davis, according to Bullard’s book, in the year 1881, for the sum of $35,000. The Carnegie family built a new Dungeness mansion, starting construction in 1884 at a price reported at around $285,000 (with furnishings), according to Ms. Bullard.
CUMBERLAND ISLAND WAS A FAVORITE DESTINATION OF THE LATE JOHN F. KENNEDY, JR.
Even though today much of Cumberland Island is a National Park (about 80% of the island), daily visitors are restricted with limited ferry service. It’s no wonder that the late John F. Kennedy, Jr. and his late wife, Carolyn Bessette, chose the magnificent natural setting and seclusion of Cumberland Island for their secretive wedding. (It took several days for the national press to find out about their trip to the altar, in a tiny, antiquated church on this island.) Cumberland reportedly was one of John’s favorite escapes, having visited this island since he was a teenager.
Picnicking, beachcombing on miles of deserted beaches, and hiking along paths and sandy, unpaved roads cut through the maritime forest of Cumberland Island are just a few things that await visitors. And the peaceful solitude of nature — and not much else. Even the forest, with a variety of oaks, looks windswept and timeless. The natural palmetto is thick, as is the Spanish moss-laden canopy of centuries-old oaks.
- Tangled Limbs of Oak Trees Near Sea Camp, Cumberland Island, GA, a US National Seashore
It’s difficult to describe the natural delight of this untouched barrier island that likely looks the same as it did a century ago. It’s a priceless jewel, and as a US National Park, has thankfully been preserved for the people.
But it may not have gone this way, if a real estate developer, Charles Fraser of Hilton Head, owner of a large parcel of Cumberland, hadn’t abandoned his plans to develop Cumberland Island. He reportedly had purchased land from Carnegie heirs in 1969. His intent was to build houses, apartments, marinas, a golf course, air strip, shopping, a hospital, and more, according to author Mary Bullard. Thankfully, Fraser was unsuccessful in his effort to develop the island, and Cumberland will remain in its wild, natural state for eternity.
Island residents reportedly banned together with environmental organizations and the Department of the Interior to support the acquisition of Cumberland by the National Park Service. Their actions were a personal sacrifice too, as they were required to sell their property on Cumberland to the National Park Service in order to perserve it — an indication of how dear to the heart Cumberland was to those who knew it best. Furthermore, donations by the Carnegies and funds from supporting foundations helped to win Congressional approval to turn Cumberland into a protected National Seashore. Rights of land use and occupancy were granted to landowners, but those rights are expiring soon.
HOW TO ACCESS CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE
- Cumberland Lady Ferry at Sea Camp Dock, a Foggy Day on Cumberland Island, Georgia
You can’t drive to Cumberland Island (there’s no bridge), so you must take a ferry. From Fernandina Beach, drive north on I-95 to St. Marys, Georgia. It’s within this sleepy Georgia town that you can catch a National Park Service ferry to Cumberland (pictured, the “Cumberland Lady”).
Public access is limited to a maximum of 300 people per day. (Adult ferry ticket is $17 plus $4 park fee, but prices are subject to change, so check for the latest information at the National Park Service website.) Ferry reservations can be reserved up to six months in advance by calling 1-888-817-3421. Be advised not to miss the return ferry – missing the boat back to St. Marys means you have to charter a private boat to return to the mainland.
There’s also a round about way to access Cumberland Island from Fernandina Beach, if you like taking boats rides and don’t feel like driving up to St. Mary’s from Amelia Island. The Cumberland Sound Ferry departs Fernandina Harbor three times a day in the summer (check seasonal schedule changes). One could take the Cumberland Sound Ferry departing Fernandina in the summer at 10 am to St. Marys. Then get on the 11:45 am Park Service ferry (noted above) departing St. Marys to arrive on Cumberland Island at 12:30 pm (allowing for a four hour visit), returning on the 4:45 pm ferry leaving Cumberland for St. Marys, then connecting to the 5:30 pm Cumberland Sound Ferry back to Fernandina Beach, at a cost of $20 round trip (plus the Park Service ferry fee). (The Cumberland Sound Ferry’s ticket booth is near Brett’s restaurant at the Fernandina riverfront at the foot of Centre Street.) Schedule and prices are subject to change, so give them a call for reservations at 904-261-9972.
A note of advice for parents: There is no Cumberland Island transportation once you step foot on the island, so plan on walking around Cumberland. There are bikes available for rent at Cumberland’s Sea Camp (first come, first serve and cost is around $16 per day). You must check with the ferry deck hands to rent bicycles — the Park Service staff does not handle bike rentals. Those with young children need to realize that an excursion to Cumberland may not be ideal for your little ones. A lot of walking is required to explore, and you’ll likely end up carrying children who tire. It’s not really a place to be pushing strollers around. You may wish to treat yourself to some quiet time with your camera, and make arrangements for childcare.
Make sure to wear sneakers or comfortable shoes, pack a lunch, snacks, drinks, sunscreen and bug spray. There are no garbage cans for disposal of your trash. Thus, anything you carry onto the island you must carry back off. The heat and humidity of the summer may be a less “user-friendly” time for some to visit the island (especially seniors who aren’t used to being outside for extended times walking around). Early spring, late fall and winter are ideal times for exploring and hiking with cooler temps and less bugs.
CAMPING ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND, GEORGIA
Both “backcountry” camping and a more developed campground are offered on Cumberland Island. The backcountry campsites do not offer any facilities, and has nearby well water that must be treated. Camp fires are not permitted in the backcountry. Sea Camp Beach campground has restrooms, cold showers, and drinking water. Camp fires are permitted at Sea Camp Beach. All camping is limited to seven days, and camping permits and reservations are required. Call 1-888-817-3421 (from 10 am to 4 pm eastern time, weekdays) for further information and camping reservations.
ROMANTIC & SECLUDED GREYFIELD INN BED & BREAKFAST
Apart from camping, only one public lodging establishment is located on Cumberland today — the lovely Greyfield Inn.
- Lucy R. Ferguson at Fernandina Beach Harbor Marina. Private Ferry to Greyfield Inn on Cumberland.
If you desire a truly unique experience where tranquility is the tonic you seek, along with great food (and reportedly good dinner conversation, too), then The Greyfield Inn is the place. This graceful home is a very special treat, indeed, to get away from it all. Built in 1900, Greyfield Inn was previously chosen as one of the “Top 10 most romantic inns” by American Historic Inns. To make this list, inns are selected for various features, including overall “romantic mystique.”
The home was originally built for Lucy and Thomas Carnegie’s daughter, Margaret Ricketson. In 1962, it was opened as The Greyfield Inn by Margaret’s daughter, Lucy R. Ferguson, and her family. (Pictured is the Greyfield Inn’s private ferry, the “Lucy R. Ferguson,” at Fernandina Beach Harbor Marina, offering daily service to the inn’s guests between Cumberland and Amelia Island, Florida.)
Rates at Greyfield for double occupancy start from around $400-plus per night all inclusive (2-night minimum stay required), and includes a southern breakfast, picnic lunch, cocktail hour and gourmet dinner, a natural history jeep tour of the island and the private ferry service to and from Fernandina Beach. Children 6-years-plus are “welcomed.” Rates are subject to change, for complete information and reservations, visit the Greyfield Inn’s website at www.greyfieldinn.com or call 904-261-6408.
As noted earlier, a visit to Cumberland Island will likely be one of the most unique, natural locations you’ve ever had the opportunity to visit, and is highly recommended. Realize that your cell phone may not get good reception in some areas of Cumberland. You may like to immerse yourself in the tranquil setting by leaving your electronic technology at home and truly escape your boss, your business associates (and anyone else for that matter), who’s not with you on the trip. You will be visiting an undeveloped island, a preserved national seashore with no stores, no street lights, no public transportation or paved roads. This is definitely the place to bring that book you’ve been wanting to read, but haven’t found the time. Revel in this natural sanctuary. After a few days, you may not ever want to leave.
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About the author — W. B. Lawson has lived on Amelia Island about 17 years, and writes tourism and lifestyle articles published in Amelia Island Living eMagazine.
